Sunday Snow Day Feast

A story and recipe from Tyler Allen, Alto Cinco Bar Manager and Main Prep Cook

There is truly nothing like waking up on a Sunday, heat turned up, warming my home. I look out the window and see big fluffy flakes floating down from the sky piling up to a few feet of snow. After the last few winters we’ve had in upstate New York, I feel the same way at 32 that I did when I was 10, excitement for a snow day! A day to do nothing but be cozy, rest deeply, and, for me, cook.

When I think of winter cooking, my mind goes to warm, comforting foods. Cooked squashes, beets, sweet potatoes; hearty-in season, vegetables and herbs that allow the body to adjust to the colder weather. That being said, this is a Sunday, so we’re making pasta.

In a perfect world, on a quintessential winter day, I’m making pasta from scratch. After a chilly trip to the Regional Market the morning before to pick up the butternut squash, onions, and garlic, I imagine myself covered in flour with an inviting fire and Hermanos Gutiérrez echoing throughout the kitchen. Spending the whole day to just sip tea or a glass of Chianti and make beautiful, homemade tagliatelle. Unfortunately this isn't a perfect world, and even on a snow day most of us don’t have time for that. If you can make your own pasta, please do. For me winter is a time for slowing down and that is the perfect way to do so; however, for our purposes today I’m going to be using Bionaturae Sourdough Penne Rigate. A friend recently gifted me a box, and it’s now a regular staple in our pantry. The health benefits of sourdough are incredible, but I think we like it in our household because it’s easy to digest… which means we can definitely have seconds.

This recipe was a real hit in my home. It’s nourishing, comforting, balanced, and rich. Everything you need on a cold Upstate New York winter night. I love the process of slowing down, and leaning into taking as much time as possible to cook this dish. I always encourage creativity in the kitchen, so feel free to make it your own! I think pasta dishes were always supposed to come from the heart and to the stomach anyway.

As for a wine pairing for this dish, I would suggest an earthy Chianti, or burgundy Pinot Noir; these would both complement the warming notes of butternut squash. If you’re into white wine, a Chardonnay or even a great Chardonnay/Viognier blend would work really well with the richness of the dish, and the acidity of these wines will cut the heaviness a bit. Could even go with a Vermentino, Côte du Rhône, or Pinot Gris if you’re not into the oak or richer whites and prefer a dry, crisp white.

My passion for cooking started long before I realized it would become such a large part of my life. As a child, I remember being in my bunk bed and feeling as if I had my own fort, and I would watch the Food Network, laughing at Emeril Lagasse yelling “BAM!” as he seasoned his food. I played sports for a while growing up so cooking was just something I watched. Eventually I needed money to fund my not-so-great habits as a 17-year-old kid who just wanted to skateboard and play music. I applied as a dishwasher at a downtown Syracuse restaurant called “Parisa.” The interview went great, so great that the head chef Shelly offered me a line cook position. I replied to her, “I’ve never worked or cooked in a professional kitchen before,” and she said, “That’s ok, I will teach you. I can tell I’m going to like you a lot more than some of the other hires.“ That marked the start of my culinary career. I am lucky enough to be the bar manager at the beloved Westcott street staple, Alto Cinco, and would like to say I have a heavy hand in the food there as well. Restaurants have become a big part of my life. I love to learn and always progress, and cooking and bartending are never-ending learning processes.